Kazbegi Calling: A Stay at Rooms Hotel in the Soul of the Caucasus

Words: Gigi Migliazzo | Photography: Yara Terpsma

The road to Kazbegi - more precisely, to Rooms Hotel - stands in striking contrast to the experience that awaits. 

The rugged, winding path is dotted with marshrutki (share taxis) navigating hairpin turns as tourists press themselves against fogged-up windows, eager for a first glimpse of the peaks ahead or a glance inside one of the roadside khachapuri joints where locals linger over golden, cheese-filled bread. Once a key route for imperial troop movements, the Georgian Military Road still carries with it an air of disorder. The scene is vibrant, unfiltered, undeniably Georgian… And then, a shift. At journey’s end, Rooms Hotel Kazbegi unveils itself in quiet repose. Muted tones, floor-to-ceiling windows framing the mountains, and an elevated take on local cuisine offer a well-earned retreat from the rugged road that led here. 

Tucked into the dramatic folds of the Greater Caucasus Mountains, Rooms sits in a quaint village known colloquially as Kazbegi - though its official name, Stepantsminda, nods to the hermit monk who once sought solitude here. Little could he have foreseen that this remote outpost would one day host a four-star Design Hotel that is a flagship of Georgia’s premier boutique hospitality brand, ROOMS. Yet, even within its plush confines, the mountain town’s rugged rhythm is palpable. An expansive view and sweeping terrace that run its length offers a panoramic front-row seat to the verdant, snow-dotted peaks. Anchored at the base of Kazbegi Mountain, it stands like the trunk of a tree rooted firmly against the wild landscape that unfurls above. The concept of a “mountain hideaway” is perfectly realized at Rooms, where rustic elements of weathered brick, reclaimed wood, and antler chandeliers bring the outside in.

Such stunning views are best savoured on a full stomach. Indulge in the local flavours at Kazbegi Kitchen’s expansive breakfast buffet, savour a glass of local Qvevri wine at the Lobby Bar, or sample a selection of Georgian flatbreads - pkhlovana, kubdari, and lubiani - in the Lounge. Rooms' dining spaces are as carefully curated as the menu itself. A selection of location-inspired cocktails can be enjoyed fireside in the bar as snow dusts the peak outside, while in the lounge, bookshelves brim with celebrated Georgian literary works - a chance for guests to sip and savour both wine and words. 

For those drawn by the call of the mountains, Rooms serves as the perfect basecamp. The outdoor activities on offer stretch far and wide - from horseback riding up Mount Elia to trekking the historic Gergeti Trinity Church, a 14th-century monastery perched above the valley. Whether on foot or horseback, the wilderness surrounding Kazbegi is so breathtaking that it’s not inviting you to explore – it’s on its knees, begging.

And the best part? After a day of outdoor thrills, the spa awaits to soothe the senses. With an indoor heated pool framed by chic lounge chairs and drop down windows, relaxation comes with a breathtaking backdrop. Hotel guests can be found here at all hours of the day, easing their muscles in the Finnish sauna or being pampered with a facial from certified therapists. Remarkably, what once stood at the site of Rooms was a Soviet sanatorium – a far cry from its current incarnation as a health and wellness retreat.

Any adequate reflection on Rooms Hotel would be remiss without addressing its most defining feature: the rooms themselves. Facing either craggy mountain peaks or lush woodland, each of the 155 chambers offer a dramatic view of surrounding Kazbegi, and an accompanying terrace to soak it up. The leather ottomans, wood-panelled floors, and neutral taupe palettes parallel the scenery outside, with subtle splashes of amber and rose enlivening the space. Antique domino tiling and a raised tub lend the bathrooms an antique charm, all whilst paired with state-of-the-art amenities essential to the ROOMS brand.

Georgia is a country of quiet humility, yet beneath its surface lies a fierce soul - one that echoes throughout Kazbegi and within the walls of Rooms Hotel. Far more than a mere overnight stay, Rooms offers an immersive journey into Georgia’s mountain culture and the sublimity of the bold silhouettes that surround it. And, when the time to depart comes, the road back to civilization feels less jarring – its disarray softened by the profound serenity only experienced at Rooms.